What to do before doing what you want to do.

Judging by the emails, forum posts and the comments landing on VMOL's Facebook Fanpage, the overwhelming majority of our readership ride their vintage bikes. A lot, in fact, as ideas on how to improve performance, reliability and comfort without compromising the machine's value or nature are traded back and forth. This is great news to us and the biggest reason for that is simple; the enjoyment and experience of riding is -by far- the healthiest thing for the sport. And while we can debate just when it becomes a financial coin flip to actually put certain collectible models on the road, thankfully there are plenty of 'less exotic' vintage bikes to fill the void. Many of these motorcycles -especially the legends of the road- truly are are works of art, but something is lost when they're forced to pose but not allowed to sing.

Naturally, riding them means working on them, and that can be accomplished in a variety of ways. Whether you're doing it yourself, farming the work or a mixture of the two, I generally advise the vintage motorcyclist to learn as much about his/her machine as possible. The law of averages says at some point, something is going to fail, break or fry and when it does, having a certain degree of understanding or experience could be the difference between a nice ride or a expensive, time-consuming headache. The best plan is to swing chance and circumstance to your favor, and that means getting your hands in there. Over the years, I've developed a maintenance routine that has worked well for me, be it a scheduled chore or a general once over before a long trip. The idea is to get familiar enough with your machine to spot potential problems before they turn into real ones. Many of these tips I've picked up from friends, books or online, all mixing one common ingredient: common sense.

You'll need two basic things for your personal Checklist Charlie; a set of working tools (inch, metric and possibly Whitworth for English rides) and a service manual. Haynes and Clymer are both solid, as are most factory published volumes. I'm spoiled, but for any kind of maintenance or detailing job I love a lift; like this hydraulic unit manufactured by Handy: (http://www.handyindustries.com). Getting off the floor and into a comfortable position not only makes the wrenching easier, it allows better access to all those hard to reach hidden spots and crevices. As mentioned previously, unless a service has been done recently I tend to concentrate on what's essential for operation. Translation, I want the motorcycle to get me home. You can struggle through with a broken speedo cable, turn signal or a missing side cover, but you'll need propulsion, a working transmission and brakes to complete the ride. Focus on what makes the bike function first (air, gas and spark) then address the areas not as critical for operation. .  

I hate a dirty motorcycle. Don't take that to mean that getting them mucked up isn't great fun, but I don't let them stay that way for long. Pride of ownership plays a part, but you don't need an engineering degree to understand that it's easier to spot a problem (like an oil leak) on a clean engine than one that's always oily. Time allowing, I'll combine a thorough tear down with my maintenance chores; striping off the body work and more if necessary. Sure, that's more work, but when it's complete your bike is both serviced AND detailed. A good combination.

Once up in the air and tied down, I start with the engine. Being a clean freak plays to one's advantage here, because while your dusting and degreasing you'll often catch something that's loose or about to fall off. I start at the top, checking for loose or cracked fuel lines, ignition wires or spotting mounting, with a squirt of silicone spray to keep the material pliable. Keeping your bike's oil and screen/filter clean and topped off is essential, but go the extra mile by servicing the air filter, installing fresh, properly gaped plugs and check the exhaust mounting. If your bike has a chain stay on top of the lube and adjustment, and for bikes with shaft drive change the transmission and bevel lube and carefully measure the fresh gear lube. An added benefit for Airhead and Guzzi owners is easy tappet inspection, but don't ignore them if your engine uses a shim/bucket arrangement. Use your manual or hire it out.                 

When the engine is finished and the bike is still in the air, it's time to take a peek at the suspension. Grab the appropriate box end, sockets and Allen wrenches and check the axle nuts, triple trees, disc brake calipers and shock mounts for tightness. The torque settings are in your manual, and it's a good idea to break them loose and re-torque if your unsure. Greasing steering head and swingarm bearings only has to be done every 12.000 miles or so, but take the time to wipe down the fork legs (gaitors are a great idea for protection if your bike doesn't already have them) and check the shock(s) for leakage. When cleaning your wheels, inspect the tires for damage, check pressure, then give them a spin listen or any unsavory noises from the wheel bearings. Bad ones can cause handling problems too.    

The most common in-ride glitch for vintage bikes is cable failure. Acting on a tip forwarded by a VMOL reader, I found a nice, stainless dental syringe on eBay and am thrilled how well it works for giving my clutch and throttle cables a shot (sorry...) of lube. I use motor oil and smear plain grease on the exposed ends and on the lever pivots. Some machines have hydraulic clutches, so check for leakage and flush with clean brake fluid when you're performing the same service to your brake system. Check your bike's shift and drum brake linkage from time to time and don't ignore the grease zerks; like the one found on a Guzzi clutch arm. If you have dials or mercury tubes, don't forget to check the carb sync if you've disturbed the cables.

If your motorcycle has points a fresh, charged battery will keep them cleaner, and while your there check the cables for suffusion and tightness. When it's time to replace, do you and your bike a favor and install a waterless, sealed gell unit. Inspect the fuse box and wiring harness for suffusion also, tracing the harness from end to end, looking for wear or exposed wires. Carry some electrical tape and wire-ties with you, and a spare headlight bulb too.   

During a cross-country trip a few years ago I met a Canadian biker who had been riding his Rapide twin since 1955. Over breakfast, he shared with me the secret of keeping his 165.000 mile Vincent reliably on the road. Producing a worn, laminated card from his jacket pocket he showed me his pre-ride checklist and service schedule. “It dropped a valve in 1975 and in 1986 I paid for a 12v conversation" he said. "Otherwise, all I've done is go over this list, fixing and repairing as needed at home, where those things need to be done. In 45-years of riding, it's never stranded me on the road.” Two hours later, his smile as we traveled down the road said it all. Mother always said an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, and the same holds true for your vintage motorcycle. Nolan Woodbury